West Coast Trail - Thrasher to Gordon River

July 19 – Thrasher to Gordon River

I didn't sleep particularly well the night before, so when I woke up at 5:30 a.m., I decided there wasn't much point trying to get back to sleep. I packed up and was on the trail by 6:50.

The morning began with . . . you guessed it! More ladders, followed by a long series of switchbacks climbing away from Thrasher Cove. About a kilometre in, the trail rejoins the inland route that hikers use when the tides aren't suitable for taking the Owen Point beach route. It was interesting to see where the two options came back together after feeling like I'd taken the "adventure route" the day before.

This stretch of trail has a reputation for being especially muddy, but I actually didn't find it too bad. There were certainly muddy sections, but what really slowed the pace was the constant climbing and descending. Just when I'd finish one hill, another seemed to be waiting.

There were people near me on the trail for much of the morning, but I usually managed to keep enough distance that I couldn't hear anyone else's conversations. 

This section also includes the highest point on the entire West Coast Trail. After days of climbing ladders, scrambling over roots, and navigating mud, it actually felt good just to power up hill.

The only place that slowed me down was around the 71 km mark, where the route finding became a little confusing. Ironically, the problem wasn't a lack of flagging tape, but too much of it! There was so much tape marking both the correct route and areas to avoid that it was difficult to tell which was which. I was glad a few other hikers were nearby so we could all confirm we were heading the right way.

Another feature of this part of the trail is that it follows the old telegraph line and there are remains of old cables. There's also a 1920's era steam donkey engine used for logging operations. You really have to wonder how they got it there, seemingly in the middle of nowhere! 

In contrast, there were some ladders that were so new you could still smell the freshly cut wood. 

I reached Gordon River around 10 am, finishing the six kilometres from Thrasher in just over three hours. Considering the trail guide suggests this section often takes four to six hours, depending on conditions and pack weight, I was pretty happy with that pace.

As I got closer to the end, I began to meet up with people starting their hike from Gordon River and heading north. I could feel their excitement but didn't envy the size of some of the packs! 

The final challenge of doing the trail southbound is the last ladder down to the beach at Gordon River. It is incredibly steep! About halfway down, I leaned back slightly because I wanted a better view of where to place my feet. Even with my relatively light pack, it immediately pulled me backwards more than I expected. It was a good reminder to just trust myself and keep my weight over my feet. I can't imagine descending that ladder with a much heavier pack.

Once I reached the beach, the two groups behind me caught up while we waited for the ferry to come to shuttle us across the Gordon River.

After checking out at the West Coast Trail Office, my first priority was a hot shower at the campground. 

From there, I drove into Port Renfrew and celebrated with lunch at the Renfrew Pub. The food is SO good and the view from the back deck, looking out over the water with the mountains beyond, was the perfect place to reflect on the past five days before beginning the drive home.

The West Coast Trail certainly lived up to its reputation. It challenged me physically and mentally, rewarded me with incredible scenery, and reminded me that sometimes the best adventures are the ones that push you just outside your comfort zone.

Over two trips (last year Nitinaht north, this year Nitinaht south) I've covered the whole trail now and would do either of those trips again. Heading southbound is the more interesting and, if you can hit the tides right around Owen Point, that's definitely the highlight of the trip. I now understand all the hype about it. 

I have CrossFit to thank for keeping me in shape for a hike like this. I only did two short training hikes in the weeks leading up to the trip and wasn't sore at all until after the last day when my calves were a bit sore from so much up hill. So, maybe again next year!  :-)