Not wanting to risk unknown road conditions past Cowichan Lake, I opted for the longer but more reliable route from Victoria, leaving at 6:30 a.m. and heading through Parksville and Port Alberni to reach Pachena Bay. I arrived with plenty of time to orient myself, locate the West Coast Trail bus pickup point, and even head into Bamfield for lunch before the 1:45 p.m. departure.
The bus departed from the West Coast Trail office, where I was also able to leave my car parked safely until I returned after the hike. We reached Nitinaht Junction at 3:10 p.m., where a smaller shuttle van took us the final 5 km into Nitinaht Village. The shuttle dropped us off right at the West Coast Trail office, where I checked into the hotel and received the door code to my room. Although it’s a short walk, the shuttle driver kindly gave me a lift to the hotel.
The hotel room was a pleasant surprise—clean and comfortable, with a small fridge, microwave, toaster, and tea kettle.
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| Colourful mural on a building beside the Nitinaht Hotel. |
Later, I went for a walk and discovered some newly built cabins nestled in a quiet, treed area. They looked like a great spot to return to for a peaceful weekend. I continued on to the lake, which I learned is a popular kiteboarding destination. There must have been over 100 people out on the water, with bright kites dotting the sky. The adjacent campground was absolutely packed! I found out that expanding the campground was the village’s “COVID project,” and it’s now about four times larger than before.
Despite the crowds near the lake, the trail alongside it felt surprisingly tranquil. Between the steady wind and the sound of water lapping at the shore, it was peaceful and serene.
After supper (which I had brought with me, unsure of local food options), I explored the village a bit more. I later discovered the gas station/store serves food, so there are some options available. The village itself was fairly quiet, with just a few kids out playing and having fun.
I came across a beautiful old totem pole that really caught my eye—definitely a highlight.
The unexpected twist of the day came in the form of a tsunami watch, triggered by an earthquake off the coast of Russia. Parks Canada advised West Coast Trail hikers to seek higher ground, likely out of an abundance of caution. On the WCT Facebook group, some tide-savvy members suggested there was no serious concern. The next day, I learned that a few hikers did manage to find higher ground, but in most places along the trail, camping options are limited to the beach. I didn't hear of any issues for people on the trail. Fortunately, the warning was lifted by morning, and I didn’t have to deal with it directly.
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