West Coast Trail 2025 - Nitinaht Narrows to Klanawa

I was up early at 5:45 a.m., grabbed a shower, and had a quick breakfast—peanut butter on a bagel and some juice. With time to spare, I made my way over to the Parks Canada office for the 7:00 a.m. check-in and the 7:30 orientation. The briefing was… well, let’s just say it was cursory at best. At 7:45, Parks staff led us on a short ~15-minute hike to the boat dock. There were 15 hikers in our group. Thankfully, not all of them going the same direction as me. 

I was very happy with my pack weight! 23.5 lbs to start which included all food and full load of water, stuffed into a 34L backpack. Weight did not include big camera, hiking poles, bear spray and phone. 

The boat dock at Nitinaht Village.

We left Nitinaht Village at 8:05 a.m. and arrived at the Crab Shack at Nitinaht Narrows by 8:35. The journey started with stunning views before we were completely enveloped in a thick, coastal fog.

Our boat was driven by Carl Edgar, a familiar and respected name on the trail—he’s been ferrying West Coast Trail hikers across the Narrows for over 50 years! He and his wife Shelley, along with other family members, run the Crab Shack, nearby cabins, tent platforms, and the boat crossings. With the steady flow of hikers through the area, I imagine they do quite well.

The Crab Shack

One of the cabins

Even though I’d already eaten, I decided to have a second breakfast at the Crab Shack—just to say I’d eaten there. While waiting for food, I was pleasantly surprised to spot a Saskatoon Police Service shoulder flash pinned to the wall among a variety of other patches. A fun little connection to home.

At 10:00 a.m., after a short two-minute boat ride across the Narrows, I began my hike north.

Sam giving us a ride across the Narrows.

The trail started off with lots of mud and exposed roots, even though it hadn’t rained in a while. There were also plenty of boardwalks, ranging from excellent condition to completely falling apart. For a while, the trail followed a high ridge that—on a clear day—would’ve offered incredible views, but the fog never lifted.

Typical looking outhouse on the WCT.

The trail guardians are known for cutting faces in the salal leaves. It's fun to come across them on the trail! 

My main goal for the day was to reach the "hole in the wall" before the tide came in. To access it, I had to time a dash across about 10 feet of sand between waves —waiting for the water to recede and then hustling across and scrambling up onto the rock shelf to stay dry. Totally worth it.

Walking along the beach past "hole in the wall", I spotted the silhouette of a large bird perched on a rock out in the ocean. At first, I couldn’t tell if it was an eagle or a turkey vulture, but eventually the distinctive flash of a white head gave it away—bald eagle. As I fumbled to get my big camera ready, it launched from its perch, and I thought that was the end of my chance. But to my surprise, it circled back, sweeping gracefully over the water a couple of times. I managed to fire off a few quick shots—not too bad, considering the fog and the distance.

I then stopped at Tsusiat Falls, the most popular campsite on the trail. It’s easy to see why—there’s a picturesque pond at the base of the falls where people were swimming and lounging. But crowds aren’t really my thing, so I pushed on for another 2 km to Klanawa campsite.

Leaving Tsusiat meant climbing several long ladders back up to the main trail. Despite all the talk online about how hard they are, I didn’t find them difficult at all—my pack was relatively light, and I don’t mind heights.

One of the bigger obstacles between Tsusiat and Klanawa campsites is the Klanawa River, which usually requires a cable car crossing. I was a bit nervous about doing it solo, but when I arrived, there was a large group ahead of me and a few hikers behind, so it turned out to be easy—and actually a lot of fun.I reached Klanawa at 3:15 p.m., covering 9.5 km in about 5.25 hours. I stopped often for photos but didn’t take any long breaks—aside from about 45 minutes of waiting to cross the cable car.

The Klanawa campsite is nestled in the trees, and I found a small spot just big enough for my little tent—Andrew’s one-person ultralight Mountain Hardwear tent. It’s a bit of a squeeze unless you’re super slim and flexible like Andrew! Thankfully, there was lots of space between campers, and it turned into a gloriously quiet afternoon and evening.

Later, I went for a walk and discovered that, due to the low water level and lack of recent rain, I could have walked across the gravel bar at the mouth of the river instead of using the cable car. Oh well—chalk it up to the full experience!

I was tucked into my tent before 9:00 p.m. and could barely keep my eyes open. I slept incredibly well that night—only waking up once for a quick bathroom trip.